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We tasted from three vintages and the oldest, the 2001s, were definitely showing signs of brilliance.

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The family has beautifully kept old parcels in prime vineyards in Piesport and Wintrich, all on steep slate slopes teetering precariously over the river.

Late picked and packed with minerals drawn from the perilously steep, slate vineyards of the small village of Punderich.

One sip and it’s easy to understand why his Dad is giving him free rein in the family cellar. The Franzens are gradually adjusting to life after Uli, the 54 year-old father, died in a freak vineyard accident in June 2010.

Uli lived his entire life in Bremm on the Mosel, a village he put on the map with his mineral-laden dry Rieslings. Sometimes he would take us in (although would be more apt) his vertical monorack rail, up the Bremmer Calmont, the steepest vineyard in Europe – steeper even than Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Priorat.

From there you can see the Neefer Frauenberg, just beyond the ruined convent that Turner painted when he did his tour of the Mosel. Uli’s brothers helped with the bottling, the kids were all-hands-on-deck, friends and fellow growers were also near.

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